Giving Credit

Today, I was reminded to give credit where it is due. As thorough and thankful I make myself to be, there are moments that still slip past my good graces, and I forget to say a word in thanks

Finding Flow

Despite the time I've put into surfing, I am only understanding what surfing is now. It takes years of muscle memory and mindfulness to get into the flow state that all the best surfers have.

This Year's Wish

If I met a past version of myself today, I wouldn't know if we would get along. Four years ago, I didn't surf. I thought I had my life figured out; but nobody ever does, except the old, the wise, and the satisfied.

Manifesto at 28

Do you remember all the wonderfully confused versions of yourself? Those past selves you now cringe at; those times you thought you failed at being real because you were only as good as you understood-- those are the moments you need to stop feeling sorry for.