Surfing Does Not Make You Pretty
Surfing does not make you pretty. This is what I tell myself when I inspect a new batch of bruises or trace the outline of old scars. Sand flies have dug islands onto my skin and jellyfish stings don't fade so easily. I'm developing muscles not suitable for a lady, and trust me: you'll never see me in high heels again. I've put away party dresses, jewelry, and clutch bags too small to carry anything. And there was no point in using concealer-- I liked being blemished and bruised for the first time in my life.
Surfing doesn't make you pretty but it teaches you the truth about beauty. Beauty isn't something you try to do to yourself. It's something you allow yourself to experience. Getting scarred by beauty is worth more than the tan or the toning. I want to surf well not to look good, but to be good at living.