Surf Notes: The Return to Majestics
First published on my Instagram feed on May 16, 2014.
This is something for the mind to remember because no HD or filtered picture will ever capture how clear the water was this morning as perfect overhead waves rolled on, the reef visible beneath the walls of water; or how the water crumbled and peeled and barreled-- no, there has to be a new word to describe how Majestic waves break with such power and grace. And that frenetic whir of energy when you first glimpse the shadows of swell lines in the distance, that zap of power as you paddle and it funnels pure adrenaline into your veins. Oh and you feel the strong lift, the sudden lurch forward, and you make the drop, time standing still for what seems to be a minute, and you glide into the wall of the wave, the reef below glistening with warm sunlight, and you crouch and prep for a bottom turn with all your mighty ambition and you make it! haha!-- you're on top again and the wave is guiding you down, your fins swiftly slicing water and you can't believe you've made it this far into the ride, and yet it isn't over. You've got a new section stretching royally before you. The feeling is so majestic I could cry crystal. I got drilled and beaten and chewed up a lot, the reef kissing my knees during some wipeouts. But even that felt strangely, supremely majestic too.