The New Year: Celebrating a Year of Surfing

First published on my Instagram feed on Dec. 31, 2013.

I skipped today's morning session to spend time with my first love: reading. I missed mornings like this, mornings of calm quietness and lazy introspection. This year was filled with jump-startling mornings, preluded either by bumpy travel or ringing alarm clocks, followed by quick cups of coffee and the routinary waxing of boards.

I came back to the beach break that started it all. On the last day of the year, I have come full circle. Today, I offer this sweet slowness to the days that have rushed by. I will savor the feeling of having left behind a strikingly beautiful year, only to wake up tomorrow, enlivened and endeared, all ready to begin the mad and moving journey again. 

Happy New Year!