The Suggested Cure For Bad Surf Days
Not all surf days are good. Lately, we've been crossing our fingers before we go to sleep to heighten the chances of a decent morning session. But the tide does not always shift to our favor and we are left to deal with rolling backwash on extreme high tide situations, and inevitable reef cuts when the tide is too low.
So we move to a beach break in the next town only to arrive with the wind, onshore as early as 8 a.m., and the sandbar there isn't able to hold a swell bigger than 3 feet. But it's better than nothing, so everyone starts showing up at the same spot, and soon, it's a crowded line-up on blown out conditions.
Like I said, not all surf days are good, but I've also learned that there's no such thing as a bad surf day.
A lot of things have been out of sync lately, and I don't mean just the waves. Getting caught up in (long overdue) work feels worse than getting caught inside the impact zone on a big day-- or at least I'm trying to get through life from the viewpoint of surf. The sea has mood swings like me; the water can go from calm to choppy in a few short minutes. And expectations can be funny; the forecast says head high sets at best but the next day you get mush. I forecasted payday to arrive yesterday but I ended up with mush. Waiting for my payroll is as frustrating as waiting for swell!
Not all days are good, but that doesn't mean you have to have a bad day.
The secret is to just go. Go on and plow through the mess of everything amiss. Surf the worst waves possible but end up getting stoked. Drive in traffic for two hours but come home smiling.
I am slowly trying to master the ultimate surfing mindset of being in the present, and knowing that there's something to be won out of every second.
Not all days are good, so find the good in all days.
Okay, here we go.
And what do you know, a decent wall after all. :)
A friend one said that the key to surfing better is to surf smarter, not harder or stronger. Wave selection can make a difference in one session. The same way that you just have to choose your battles in real life. Not every stressful situation's worth your time so pick which waves to ride. Conserving your energy in the lineup is also critical so you don't burn out too early. Sometimes, the conditions can swerve to your favor if you are patient enough. Wind dies down. Rain clouds roll away. And clean, glassy sets can come parading straight out of heaven.
So don't stop when things are bad. Life can surprise you if you let it.
And look-- this is the same spot on a different day. Cleaner sets and longer rides to those who know when to go, and when not to easily turn away. Thank you for the photos and the stoke, Crystal Beach Resort! :)
Aside from surfing in leggings, I also got to ride Harold's 5'10" Hayden Shapes Blak Cat in a different spot. Although I didn't do as well on this board as I did on the purple 6'0", I'm happy enough to just try out new things.
I wonder: which board can I borrow next? Sea you!