On Two Wheels


I would like to surf everyday but life throws in distractions in the form of work, laundry, allergies, and the much dreaded flat spell. The seasons are shifting. We feel the humidity change, the temperature drop and rise again. We took the old motorcycle out for a spin on the far end of the beach and we dreamed of exploring new breaks this way. It wasn't surfing but it felt just like it: the rev and the runs, the torque in the turns. We sped up and slowed down according to the ground. Lately, everything I see reminds me of a wave face. My emotions tell me I've forgotten how to wait. So I change my approach. I breathe and find my flow. When the next section opens up again, I'll be ready to go.