Day 85: Wherein I Ramble About My Surfing


85/100 → Lately, I realized that my surfing had nothing to do with what I could do and could not do on a wave. I used to think of progress as a checklist of maneuvers, an outline of unrealistic expectations that I could pit against myself.

But why try to turn if I don't yet know the point of speed? What use is a cutback if I don't understand the wave?

So I am turning back to the first page-- I am practicing how to be even less afraid. 

I used to be intimidated by so many things: longboards, steep drops, duck diving, jellyfish. I thought I could improve by being selective, but the only thing I was getting better at was running away.

So I am sticking to the exercise of simply wanting to try. I need to believe that I'll be fine. Maybe, if I got better at just trying, I would earn my own trust. Others in the water will begin to trust me. And frankly, that's more than good enough.

Camille PilarComment