Day 31 to Day 34: Collected Life Lessons (in a Sea Shell)
These next couple of entries make me a little proud to be doing this project. I had quite a lot in mind this week (we crossed the coast and ended up in the Pacific shoreline!) and I'm happy I've found a cause to help me translate more of my meanderings into words. Read on, chaps!
31/100 → I wouldn't have gone out, I shouldn't have gone out, but I did. I would have gotten hurt, yes I really could have, but I didn't.
It's straddling the line between a hallmark victory and a stupid decision but I'm glad I did it anyway. Because to be honest, both feel sheepishly good!
And because you do not, cannot, just forget a wave like this. Dangerously powerful. Startlingly beautiful. To be in the water to take all of it in is a risk worth taking again and again.
32/100 → It wasn't the best of circumstances. We smoked our car's spark plugs on the way to Baler and we had to worry about the long drive back: cutting through mountain trails, from one coast to another. Then there was Nica and her penchant for misbehaving in new places and attracting trouble in the form of other dogs. And at night, we had to scratch away the insidious itch from invisible jellyfish armies and we all must have dreamed of antihistamines.
Plus the sets were monstrous. Panic-inducing. Bigger by the day. All my duck dive attempts failed and I got whipped around, held down, pushed to the edge far too many times.
But how could any of it have been bad? Baler was impressively progressive. They've accelerated local surf culture in such a short time. How could any of it be a disappointment? We saw so many friends, and we surfed new spots, and by toughing it out at sea, we unlocked a kind of stoke that is overlooked otherwise.
We learned how to endure. We learned how to be patient and how to be humble again. Eventually, things just fell into place. And on the drive home, we got to think of a ride that we each did make, that one self-redeeming ride that proves-- all who are patient and humble are meant to last.
33/100 → We lived in our car for a few days. We drove toward less dense areas of the coastline and watched waves break unridden. We reclined the car seats and somehow made a comfortable enough bed. Our bundled up jackets were as good as pillows, and we'd park anywhere near anyone who would let us plug in our extension cord. We watched surf films from my laptop before going to sleep. Nica had her own corner of the car. And nights would be quiet, except for the whirring of our mini fan and the crashing of waves from a distance.
I love this thought endlessly: everything I want and need, I can take with me.
34/100 → Of course, we had to stop whatever we were doing. The south swell had arrived! ♡